Half Way Through New Zealand

New Zealand

I envisioned New Zealand to be this epically magical place, where we would hike, be completely enamored by unworldly beauty and most importantly climb big southern mountains.

The Wanaka Tree PC-JDSTYLOS

Truly, New Zealand has been something of unworldly beauty, just minus the climbing part. I’ve managed to not write any recent blogs because we just haven’t been able to get any Climbing in.

Hike to Brewster Hut PC-JDSTYLOS

After Barff, we set our eyes on a route on Mt.Brewster. With weather moving in fast, we were quick to head to the mountain, but in the process didn’t give ourselves enough time to recover from our physical efforts on Mt Barff. We hiked to Brewster Hut at the base of the climb and were taken aback with how tired we felt. So rather than push ourselves to the point of exhaustion we opted to enjoy a beautiful blue bird day at the hut instead of going for the summit.

Brewster hidden in the clouds PC-JDSTYLOS

When we arrived back to town we decided to spend a few days resting and took a couple of days to hike to a “local” hut. Meg Hut is only a couple/few hour east hike from the road. We arrived to an adorable quaint shepherds hut only to be surprised to see 7 middle aged guys were spending there weekend away from the family there. They thoughtfully gave us the last bunk and offered one of their’s. What turned out to be not exactly what we had thought it was going to be still turned out to be a good night.

Meg Hut PC
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We stayed in Wanaka in hopes to find something else to climb. When that didn’t happen we decided to head North towards Mt.Cook. We took in the eye widening beauty that is Mt.Cook. I’ve never seen such a massive mountain range. We smiled in excitement and pointed out Tasman, Dixon, Cook and her three peaks as they towered above anything nearby. 

Along with Mt Aspiring, Mt Dixon was on our list of climbs while we were here. After talking to plenty of people and with such warm weather we had assumed that the climb to Dixon and Plateau Hut (base Camp) were out. 

Mt Cook PCJDSTYLOS

When we arrived to the Mt.Cook visitor center, we initially had planned to ask about some good hikes with beautiful Mountain View’s. After finding and talking to the Climbing rangers our faith was restored in our attempt to climb to Mt. Dixon. We had a short weather window, and cold temperatures that were sure to secure the quality of the snow. With about 95% of climbers flying into Plateau Hut, we were excited to be climbing in. With this probably being the last chance of the year to head up, we left the DOC Center with a jump in our step and a plan in our minds. 

After we had packed our food bags, and prepped everything for the following day departure, that night we climbed into bed with big intentions for the following days. 

Cards at Brewster Hut PC-Jdstylos

Before I even realized what was happening I quickly started to get cold, sweaty and a fever. We put the climb off for a day and got some rest but soon after our plans for our climb quickly fell down the drain as for the next 4 days I was laid up in bed. I eventually went to the doctor for a prescription to kick my infection.

After so much time lost, the weather warmed up and we threw in the towel and left the Cook area to go on and find new things to do. With almost all the climbs melted out we’ve tried to switch our mindset to get some good hiking in with the time we have left.

We have moseyed our way to the west coast, and between fighting off sandflies and rainy days we found a sunny afternoon to check out the tourist filled Fox Glacier. 

Dinner time PC-JDSTYLOS

After having seen so many glaciers, both Joe and I were fairly unimpressed with the tourist viewpoint of the glacier. With so much receding in recent years, you can barely see any of the glacier anymore. We started to walk down as I watched a guided group step over the twine fence and near a sign that said “guided groups only passed this point”. Even so, my curiosity got the best of me and I started asking questions to the guide.

She quickly reassured me that if you have any sort of Climbing knowledge that we should definitely go check out the glacier. That the sign there doesn’t mean you can’t get up there, mostly just to deter people from doing so. She mentioned the ice climbing possibilities up high and pointed out the gulley to the right that gives access to the glacier above. 

Mt Cook PC JDSTYLOS

I took my new found knowledge and tried to suppress my excitement as I ran the idea passed Joe. We decided that tomorrow morning we’d see if we could get up there and find some climbable ice. 

The next morning the clouds loomed above us as we trekked out towards our objective. It was a short work to get to the toe of the glacier. Originally we thought we might have a wicked river crossing to do but after further inspection we decided to gain the glacier true left and traverse across the ice until we met the gulley. We carefully crossed the ice, with stones and gravel melted and frozen into the water ice surface, the travel was overall smooth and uneventful. We made it to the base of the Gulley when suddenly, just like in NZ fashion, it started to rain. The guide from yesterday warned us about one thing, and that was to be no where near that rock Gulley during the rain. So we promptly turned around after an hour and a half of Climbing. We spent the rest of the day hanging out in the car, watching the rain patter against the windshield and decided to give it one more try the next day. 

Fox Glacier PC-JDSTYLOS

Unlike the day before the sky was cloudless the following morning. With the new found knowledge of the glacier we made it to yesterday’s high point in little to no time. We started up the Gulley and both Joe and I knew this was no place to stop and rest. We scrambled up and over the loose rocks and through streams. Massive house sized boulders loomed above our heads, still sleeping. Carefully not to wake them we climbed swiftly through the rock field to where the white ice of the glacier was now in view. We climbed out of the Gulley and sat on the rocks while we changed our shoes and placed crampons on our feet in preparation for a change in the terrain. 

Guided helicopters buzzed above us as they went in for landings onto the glacier. Most of the time when you are on a glacier you feel completely alone in the world. With guide companies bringing clients onto the “accessible only by helicopter” glacier all hours of the day, you feel a bit more like you’re in the city than on a living, breathing, crevassed glacier. 

Helicopter PC-JDSTYLOS

We stayed clear of the helicopters, and made detours around their landing pads. We stopped and said hello to one of the guides who pointed out the best ice climbing areas. He quickly warned us of the rock fall danger near the sides of the glacier but seemed happy to give us any information we were looking for. 

We thanked him, and went on our way. Unlike most glaciers I’ve been on the crevasses on the Fox Glacier are mostly filled in. So for the most part glacier travel was relatively easy. We saw the ice climbing locations not to far in the distance. Guided groups climbed away on massive semi vertical sheets of ice. We jumped across small crystal blue creeks that ran across the top of the ice and stepped methodically across the spines of ice walls. Late season conditions made the ice form into magnificent sculptures and shapes of all kinds. 

After four and a half hours of hiking, Joe and I decided that even though we hadn’t technically ice climbed anything we were both ecstatic with just getting to climb and play along the glacier. Without the luxury of a 5min helicopter ride back to town we decided that it was probably a good idea to start heading down. 

We made quick work of the glacier travel and arrived back to the rocks where we changed our shoes. Before we knew it we were quickly scrambling back down the Gulley. We didn’t dare to look up, only ahead at what move was next. By the time we climbed up and back out of the way of the rock fall danger we both agreed that we were glad to have the Gulley behind us. 

We made it back to the car by mid afternoon only to watch dark grey clouds roll into the glacier valley. We were glad to have left when we did. Both of us felt happy and physically felt great. It was so wonderful to feel like we achieved one of our goals.

Rock throwing competition PC-JDSTYLOS

With some success we smiled and said goodbye to Fox Glacier and kept making our way North. With rain pouring out of the sky we tried to enjoy some smaller towns along the way. 

So, with all of this warm weather we’ve set our Climbing goals aside for this trip and have started working our way north and looking into other fun, outdoorsy things we can find to do! We’ve started re-reading “Training for the New Alpinism” and are taking advantage of the immense playground at our finger tips to start training for next springs climbing objectives. We are both looking forward to going to some places that weren’t originally on the radar!!

PC-JDSTYLOS

The Southwest Ridge of Mt. Barff, New Zealand- 7,388ft, December 1st-3rd 2017

Going back to this last January, I started looking at mountains to climb here in NZ. The one that caught my eye was Mt. Aspiring. Also known as the “Matterhorn of the South”, she towers above the Aspiring National Park in high demand of respect. I researched the routes and the southwest ridge peaked my interest. Climb until you gain the ridge, then you’ll come to a couloir filled with ice. Two pitches of ice climbing leads you to the Northwest Ridge, where you gain the summit. The PERFECT route for where Joe and I were at in our Climbing, it’s all I could think about. 

I was most excited about Aspiring as it was the first Mountain and route I picked out for us to climb. So when we came to NZ only to here of warm temperatures and poor conditions, my heart started to sink and I tried not to think of the worst. We went from the DOC (Department of Conservation, similar to the National Park Service), multiple guiding companies, and to the gear stores in search of information. One of the guide companies conditions report confirmed our fears... “Southwest Ridge is incomplete”. In other words, rather than picturesque ice straight to the summit, you’re more like to discover loose and dangerous rock.  My heart sat in my stomach for a few days, to come so far for one major objective seems silly. But as Ive been told and am figuring out... that’s a part of Climbing. 

So with that, we started looking for new objectives. Asking around Wanaka, we were quickly laughed at when people figured out we didn’t have any rock gear. In a good snow year, ice screws and pickets are plenty. In a year like this, rock shoes and rock pro is the way to go. People started throwing out different options, one of those being Mt. Barff.

Mt. Barff

Everyone I've talked to about Mt.Barff doesn't know exactly why or the reason behind its unusual name. If I had to guess, I'd say that the person who christened the mountain with a name like Barff, must've puked multiple times just trying to get to the base of the snow.  Terrible skree rock lines her flanks and makes for a huge undertaking. 

We drove towards the Raspberry Car Park and encountered many fords along the way. The last looked deep and impassable for low clearance Hidey, so we parked her on the side of the road and added a mile and a half to our already 9 1/2 mile day. 

The first 3/4 of the hike is completely flat ground through the Matukituki Valley. Crossing through farm land in the presence of towering mountains on our sides and even larger beasts in front of us. We arrived at Aspiring Hut for a brief lunch and admired Mt Aspiring and Mt Barff that rose straight ahead. 

After a couple more hours of walking through flat valleys, we found ourselves at the base of the mountain that would lead us to Liverpool Hut. The sign read as: “Liverpool Hut-2 Hours. WARNING: This hike is steep and treacherous in wet AND dry conditions”.  

We started up and quickly realized that the sign was no joke. More like scrambling, most of the hike you were hand over foot pulling on roots and rocks to get you up. Over 2,500 vertical feet of “climbing” was had, with 40lbs if climbing gear on our backs. By the time we reached the hut we sat in exhaustion and stared at Barff that was peeking in and out of the clouds. 

Prior to leaving on this adventure, a local gear store employee advised us on the path through the scree rock to get to the snow. With a hand made map, Joe ate some lunch and scampered off to find the trail for tomorrow morning. I sat in the hut until his return multiple hours later. In that time a few hikers came to the hut for a nights stay, which we warned that we would be as quiet as we could at 1:30AM while we packed our bags and headed out for the climb. 

Joe returned looking tired but optimistic. With the hut being at 3,608ft, that meant we had 3,708ft to go for summit day. With an early start then next morning, we ate dinner and quickly climbed into our sleeping bags and fell asleep before the sun had set. 1:30AM rolled around faster than expected. Both Joe and I groggily changed and went to the mud room to grab our packs. We had left the hut by 1:57AM, and as we looked into the night sky an ominous cloud blanketed the summit. 

With mostly moonlight and stars we started up. Through the bush, we finally found our way to the rocks. A few wrong turns had led us astray but soon enough the cairns started to be more consistent and we knew we were on the right track. Each step was methodically thought about.  With pebbles on big flat slippery rocks, a fall would have high consequences.

 After two hours of just rock scrambling we found our first snow patch. We took advantage of the low angle and changed shoes, put harnesses on and roped up. The change from rock to snow was glorious, and rest stepping brought back wonderful memories from earlier this summer. 

The angle slightly increased on the mountain and the sun started to rise. Our hopes were high that the change in temperature would clear the dark cloud that we were now just a few hundred feet from. Up until this point the Climbing was easy. Few crevasses, and moderate angle made for smooth sailing. Soon enough we had climbed our way into the clouds. Before long the sky became the same color as the snow and the definition between the two was gone. 

I could see Joe just ahead and nothing more. The bright green rope between us glowed in the whiteout, keeping us together. The clouds would shift and we’d hold our breath, looking around for some sort of indication of where we might be, only to be engulfed again in the white. We stopped, took off our packs, threw on a warm jacket and waited.

We waited, and waited. In the same spot we sat and looked to see if the weather would be on our side. After more than an hour, doing sun dances and asking for a break the weather persisted. Should we go? Or wait just ten more minutes?? The thought of getting back to the hut and the Mountain showing her face made our stomachs turn in frustration. 

With the snow already soft and getting softer we knew our time had ticked away and we turned around following our tracks back to the rocks. When you do make the decision to go down due to weather, your mindset switches from: “please sun, C’mon, just a little less cloud!” to: “I hope I never see the sun again.”

Going down is always a tricky thing, with tired legs it tends to be the place where most accidents happen. With a summit in hand, the euphoria feeds into the thought process of thinking about each muscle movement that’ll get you down safely. Without one, it requires what seemed to be more thought and effort. 

We changed our shoes and took off our gear for the rock section. We stepped as carefully as we could. There was a few moments where my butt hit the ground but luckily those moments were met with a smile and laughter as we continued on.

We arrived back to the hut after 8 hours and 30 minutes of Climbing. We had made it 3/4 of the way to the top before turning around. Luckily when we looked Barff’s way, all there was to see what big, white, engulfing clouds. 

The rest of the day was spent in the hut. That afternoon the clouds increased and the wind picked up. Rain was repeatedly pelted into the side of the hut, and Joe and I were glad not to be up on the mountain. 

The next morning we headed down, we down climbed the roots and rocks and once safely at the bottom we celebrated with a candy bar, as we knew from here on out was just flat ground. 

Walking on “flat” ground is easier said than done. With heavy packs and tired legs the next 4 hours seemed to drag. When we reached the last mile and a half of our walk both Joe and I tried to not look ahead. I could’ve sworn the car was getting farther away even though we were walking towards it! 

Of course we got back to Hidey, took off our shoes and drove the rest of the way back to town. The clouds never broke around Barff while we were in the valley, only to solidify the decision to turn around.

While Climbing you tend to dream of the food you see in town. This trip was no different, and while trying to be good with our money we’ve only managed to eat out once the entire trip thus far. We decided to reward ourselves after a good effort and all we could think about was the Turkish Kababs and fries that were on the main drag. We had walked by the restaurant so many times, so to actually go inside was euphoric. 

We sat down, thoroughly stuffed ourselves with food and started thinking about the next climb.